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Our Herd's Health & Our Extensive Goat Care Instructions  Our herd name is "Creamer's LF"
Thinking you want to bring Dairy Animals into you Farm? Read HERE 
We try to sell does only to individuals WHO ARE looking to really milk their goats. This requires dedication. It also requires a high standard of care. You cannot do this the "cheap" way if you want good results! We do sell wethers to pet homes sometimes or humane, quality homes where they will be used when grown out for meat.
A Bit about Our Herd We are fortunate that our does are able to basically FREE-RANGE all day, almost every day! This helps lead to amazingly good condition on our girls!
TOTAL Goat care instructions are located
much further down on this page
If you buy from us, we do not make assurances once the goat leaves our care and property unless otherwise stated in writing.
CL, CAE and Johnes Disease An ethical breeder will stand by whatever word they give a buyer on their disease status. Our personal thoughts on Goat Dieases
On CAE (Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis) There are many theories on CAE. Some say you can know a goat is negative without a doubt, some say you can’t. Some say testing isn’t reliable, some say it is. Studies through WADDL showed 80% of goats in their studies were testing positive. Statistics show most goats are rarely symptomatic, 90% are not for many years. Some breeders say Cull all positive animals, some just raise their kids on CAE prevention, some say if the doe is not symptomatic, they are simply carriers and do not have the active disease. Here are some links to help you read up and come to your own decision on the disease. We do not really support any particular site’s feelings on the matter: The goat to goat info site, Fiasco Farm, offers this opinion: http://fiascofarm.com/goats/cae.htm
Another well respected lab offers another: http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts_waddl/caefaq.aspx
A Vet stance on CAE: http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/55000.htm WADDL Laboratory states that goats do experienced “delayed seroconversion,” and this is why breeders test many times. This is what makes CAE free guarantees very difficult because the testing is not 100% accurate in that It can only tell you with a high accuracy about the antibodies the goat has in it’s body at that time. The goat can, according to research and statements from many other breeders, be infected with CAE and not producing antibodies – YET – to it. This is why breeders test every 6 months or yearly when a goat has been negative, even many times. Breeders who raise on CAE prevention still typically test yearly or more often because of the incidents of human error in the raising on prevention and because they know results can change Year to year, else they would not spend a great deal of time and money, testing the same goats with past negative results. I am not 100% certain about CAE and testing and what is and is not true; therefore, We have made great efforts to buy from herds with a good reputation for quality Stock, and we have tested most of our herd (all of the herd as of early 2010, though some coming after from reputable breeders have no yet been tested here on the farm) yearly. All herds we have purchased from either had testing or had tested and raised on prevention so long, they no longer test because they felt the risk was no minimal. We encourage All buyers to feel free to conduct ANY and ALL bloodwork testing you would like on any kid or dam of any kid you’re interested in, including CAE, CL and Johnes. If we do not have CAE testing currently on a goat in question, we will test for CAE on our dime at your request. We will conduct other testins at your expense. We do not make guarantees on the status of any goat’s disease status, but we will provideTheir testing status, if available, upon request. We will state plainly the testing status, which will always be either: Negative or not yet tested. We will not manage an animal we know to be positive at this time. Were an animal to come up positive, we would find the animal a pet only home or have the animal humanely put down if such a home was not possible. At this time, all goats on the grounds in 1/2010 were negative. All of our Nubian does and buck owned at testing time are either negative as of 2/2011 through Biotracking or out of dams that have had 2 years of negative testing here. ½ of the Nigerian herd was negative as of 2/2011, but goats incoming after 2/2011 either came from CAE prevention herds, long time CAE free herds or with assurances of negative CAE testing in the past. The Atwood Acres does, Ain-Ash-Shams Buttinheads Buck and Saanen doelings fall into these categories. They will all be tested this fall. All current testing is freely provided upon request. We test ONLY through biotracking, but a buyer is free to use any lab at their cost for testing. On CL or Caseous Lymphadenitis Click to Read above about CL above CL, unlike CAE, can be transmitted to humans, though rarely, which means you should not ever attempt to manage it. We personally do not blood test for CL because the testing is not highly accurate at this time, much less so than CAE. Goats with CL typically do not have many abscesses in their lives. CL Surfaces with the animals is under stress, and testing only tells someone if a goat has an active abscess, which is something you can typically see from a good inspection of the animal, which you should always conduct. You are free to check the whole herd (which we encourage and do ourselves often) and opt to have them tested at your cost at the lab of your choice, we feel it is impossible to guarantee a herd’s status, and because CL is VERY contagious, lives in the ground, is carried by birds and insects and more. That said, I believe the herd, with our diligent practices, to be CL free, for what it is worth, but I do not make guarantees with any purchase.
I have done my best to buy from herds that have no signs of CL, and I would
never keep a CL positive animal and have not had, to my knowledge, a CL positive animal! We encourage All buyers to feel free to conduct any bloodwork testing you would like on any kid or dam of any kid you’re interested in, including CAE, CL and Johnes. We do not make guarantees on the status of any goat’s disease status. Click above to read a bit about Johnes
Like CL, the testing is fairly unreliable, so we do not test.
We have no clinical signs in our herd of Johnes, which is a wasting disease. We encourage All buyers to feel free to conduct any bloodwork testing you would like on any kid or dam of any kid you’re interested in, including CAE, CL and Johnes.
We do not make guarantees on the status of any goat’s disease status.
We do not test of Brucellosis, but as with other diseases, you’re welcome to conduct your own testing. Brucellosis in rare in goats in the USA.
On the Genetic defect , G6S found in 25% of Nubians http://kinne.net/g6 Testing at this time is cost prohibitive, but we are happy to allow this Cost prohibitive for us, but this is a genetic test we can have done on any kid you’re interested in at YOUR cost.
Purchases We will never knowingly SELL any animal with CAE, CL, Johnes or other disease. We are truthful and frank breeders and sellers. We will not paint fanciful pictures of guarantees we feel we cannot honestly make to you, the buyer. At this date, when I make a purchase, I understand the risks involved when Buying goats, and I try to impart this to other buyers. While I do NOT believe all herds carry diseases, at all, I do believe it is likely impossible to be certain on the disease status. We do not offer ANY guarantees of animals being free of any disease – BUT WE WILL PROVIDE TESTING FOR ANY PURCHASED GOAT prior to purchase for your assurance that, at the time of sale, the animal was testing free of any disease tested for, at your request - We do not accept any animal back into the herd or offer any refunds Of purchase costs, transport costs or otherwise. We will offer you the right and encourage you to conduct ANY testing you would Like and feel confident in; we will discuss all herd health precautions we take; We will give you all of the testing we have carried out on the whole herd.
We do test yearly for CAE and sometimes twice yearly if goats come into the herd after Our start of the year testing in Jan or Feb each year. I make the parallel to a used car purchase . . . It would be dishonest of a seller to sell a car with a known issue that will make The car inoperable soon after the purchase to a buyer or to sell a car that has been wrecked And have not, for instance, had the airbags replaced (this happened to me once, as a matter of fact), but it would not be unfair to sell a used car with all know information disclosed, the offer to have a full inspection upfront and with the understanding that, and then the car comes up with a new issue, even with the transmission goes out, that is the risk of that type of purchase. That car sells as is and our livestock sells AS-IS, and that is basically how we feel we must operate in ALL ANIMAL sells on the farm, and this is how we consider all purchases we make at this point to go, as well. If testing gets to a point I can feel honest if the results, this stance will change, and I hope to see that happen.
A GO TO GUIDE FOR ALL questions about Goat health is: FIASCO FARM
"How to end up with a quality animal" See a sample ADGA scorecard here http://www.dairygoatjournal.com/goats/adga_judging_scorecard.html Understanding LA, DHIR, ADGA Genetics and more: http://www.caldairygoats.com/readperfped.htm Guide to Linear Traits - The "ideal" ranges from the ADGA type committee:
strength 27 - 33
dairyness 33 - 38
teat diameter 18 - 28
rear legs 25 - 30
rump angle 30 -35
rump width 30- 35
fore udder 35 - 42
rear udder hgt 40 - 45
rear udder arch 32 - 40
udder depth 22 - 27
medial 28 - 32
teat placement 25 - 30
The above figures are based on a 4 Year old doe and would not apply to a younger doe http://www.adgatype.org/Linear%20Appraisal%20Def'n.htm Understanding PTAs, ETA, PTIs http://www.adga.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=268:artabcs&catid=48:sire-development&Itemid=74
http://goatdairylibrary.org/conformation.html
Ideally, look for goats coming close to the mid photos * * * GUIDELINES FOR EVALUATING FAULTS SLIGHT TO SERIOUS
General:
Wry or broken tail
Undershot or overshot jaw
Close in hocks
Large horn scurs or stubs (except in minis)
Non-disabling lameness
Enlarged knees
Feet turned out
Loose, winged, or heavy shoulders
Narrow chest or pinched heart girth
Short, shallow, or narrow body
Low (swayed) back
Steep rump
Small boned for body size
Bowed front legs, buck kneed
Hind legs close
Pasterns too long or soft
TEATS: set close together, bulbous, extremely large or small, uneven in size, pointed sideways, not clearly delineated, small orifices or otherwise difficult to milk
UDDER: lacking in attachment, too much or too little division between halves, beefy texture, pocket in fore udder, presence of scar tissue. MODERATE
General – NONE
Breed Specific:
ALPINE:
mature does under 30” or less than 135 lbs. mature bucks under 32” or less than 160 lbs.
Does with true Toggenburg color and markings
Does with all white color
LAMANCHA:
mature does under 28” or less than 130 lbs.
mature bucks under 30” or less than 155 lbs.
NUBIAN:
mature does under 30” or less than 135 lbs.
mature bucks under 32” or less than 160 lbs.
PYGMY:
snipey muzzle; thin or weak neck; small, round or protruding eyes
OBERHASLI:
mature does under 28” or less than 120 lbs.
mature bucks under 30” or less than 150 lbs.
SAANEN:
mature does under 30” or less than 135 lbs.
mature bucks under 32” or less than 160 lbs.
SABLE:
mature does under 30” or less than 135 lbs.
mature bucks under 32” or less than 160 lbs.
TOGGENBURG:
mature does under 26” or less than 120 lbs.
mature bucks under 28” or less than 145 lbs.
Few small white spots in hair of does MODERATE TO SERIOUS
General – NONE Breed Specific:
Alpines, LaMancha, Oberhasli, Saanen, Sable, & Toggenburg: roman nose
Nigerian Dwarf: roman nose; curly coat
Pygmy: rump too long; coat wavy, curly, silky, too short or sparse, shallow or weak thighs; legs too long SERIOUS
General:
Udder: pendulous, too distended to determine texture, hard or swollen (except in does just fresh), one half less than half the size of the other, misplaced or leaking orifice
Natural horns (except in miniatures) Breed Specific:
ALPINE:
true Toggenburg color and markings in bucks. All white color in bucks
NUBIAN:
straight face
OBERHASLI:
small white spots in the hair of does
SAANEN:
dark cream color, several dark spots in hair
TOGGENBURG:
black does, white stomach on does, white spot 1.5” in hair of does, few white spots in hair of bucks. VERY SERIOUS
General:
Udder lacking in size or capacity in relation to frame size and stage of lactation
Extra teat on doe (even if it has been removed)
Double orifice in teat on doe
Crooked or malformed feet
Crooked face on does Breed Specific:
NUBIAN:
barely drooping ears
OBERHASLI:
small white spots in the hair of bucks DISQUALIFICATIONS
General:
Serious emaciation
Total blindness
Permanent lameness
Blind (non-functioning) udder half
Blind teat
Double teat (bifurcal, or fused)
Extra teat that interferes with milking (supernumerary)
Extra teat on buck (supernumerary)
Double orifice on buck
Crooked face on buck
Active mastitis or any other cause of abnormal milk
Evidence of hermaphroditism
Evidence of any inability to reproduce
Evidence of myatonia
Anything other than two normal, fully descended testicles in bucks
Permanent physical defect, such as naval hernia Breed Specific:
ALPINE:
pendulous ears
LAMANCHA: anything other than gopher ears on bucks, anything other than true LaMancha type ears on does
NIGERIAN DWARF: pendulous ears, does over 22 1/2”, bucks over 23 1/2”
NUBIAN: upright ears, dished face
OBERHASLI: pendulous ears, all black bucks, large white spot 1.5” or greater in hair
PYGMY: naturally polled, roman nose, cannon over 4.6” in bucks or 3.7” in does, pendulous ears, does over 22 1/2”, bucks over 231/2”
SAANEN: pendulous ears, large dark spot 1.5” or greater in hair
SABLE: pendulous ears, pure white or solid light cream color
TOGGENBURG: pendulous ears, tri-colored or piebald, black bucks, white stomach on bucks, large white spot 1.5” or greater in hair of bucks GENERAL APPEARANCE An attractive framework with femininity (masculinity in bucks), strength, upstandingness, length, and smoothness of blending throughout that create an impressive style and graceful walk. Stature - slightly taller at withers than at hips with long bone pattern throughout. Head & Breed Characteristics - clean-cut and balanced in length, width, and depth; broad muzzle with full nostrils; well-sculpted, alert eyes; strong jaw with angular lean junction to throat; appropriate size, color, ears, and nose to meet breed standard. Front End Assembly - prominent withers arched to point of shoulder with shoulder blade, point of shoulder, and point of elbow set tightly and smoothly against the chest wall both while at rest and in motion; deep and wide into chest floor with moderate strength of brisket. Back - strong and straight with well-defined vertebrae throughout and slightly uphill to withers; level chine with full crops into a straight, wide loin; wide hips smoothly set and level with back; strong rump which is uniformly wide and nearly level from hips to pinbones and thurl to thurl; thurls set two-thirds of the distance from hips to pinbones; well defined and wide pinbones set slightly lower than the hips; tailhead slightly above and smoothly set between pinbones; tail symmetrical to body and free from coarseness; vulva normal in size and shape in females (normal sheath and testes in males). Legs, Pasterns & Feet - bone flat and strong throughout leading to smooth, free motion; front legs with clean knees, straight, wide apart and squarely placed; rear legs wide apart and straight from the rear and well angulated in side profile through the stifle to cleanly molded hocks, nearly perpendicular from hock to B, yet flexible pastern of medium length; strong feet with tight toes, pointed directly forward; deep heels with sole nearly uniform in depth from toe to heel. DAIRY CHARACTER Angularity and general openness with strong yet refined and clean bone structure, showing freedom from coarseness and with evidence of milking ability giving due regard to stage of lactation (of breeding season in bucks). Neck - long, lean, and blending smoothly into the shoulders; clean-cut throat and brisket. Withers - prominent and wedge-shaped with the dorsal process arising slightly above the shoulder blades. Ribs - flat, flinty, wide apart, and long; lower rear ribs should angle to flank. . Flank - deep, yet arched and free of excess tissue. Thighs - in side profile, moderately incurving from pinbone to stifle; from the rear, clean and wide apart, highly arched and out-curving into the escutcheon to provide ample room for the udder and its attachment. Skin - thin, loose, and pliable with soft, lustrous hair. BODY CAPACITY Relatively large in proportion in size, age, and period of lactation of animal (of breeding season for bucks), providing ample capacity, strength, and vigor. Chest - deep and wide, yet clean-cut, with well sprung foreribs, full in crops and at point of elbow. Barrel - strongly supported, long, deep, and wide; depth and spring of rib tending to increase into a deep yet refined flank MAMMARY SYSTEM Strongly attached, elastic, well-balanced with adequate capacity, quality, ease of milking, and indicating heavy milk production over a long period of usefulness. Udder Support - strong medial suspensory ligament that clearly defines the udder halves, contributes to desirable shape and capacity, and holds the entire udder snugly to the body and well above the hocks. Fore, rear, and lateral attachments must be strong and smooth. Fore Udder - wide and full to the side and extending moderately forward without excess non-lactating tissue and indicating capacity, desirable shape, and productivity. Rear Udder - capacious, high, wide, and arched into the escutcheon; uniformity wide and deep to the floor; moderately curved in side profile without protruding beyond the vulva. Balanced, Symmetry & Quality - in side profile, one-third of the capacity visible in front of the leg, one-third under the leg, and one-third behind the leg; well-rounded with soft, pliable, and elastic texture that is well collapsed after milking, free of scar tissue, with halves evenly balanced. Teats - uniform size and of medium length and diameter in proportion to capacity of udder, cylindrical in shape, pointed nearly straight down or slightly forward, and situated two-thirds of the distance from the medial suspensory ligament on the floor of each udder-half to the side, indicating ease of milking.
What are you looking for in your dairy goat? Consider the chart below when choosing a breed:
MILK PRODUCTION for breeds
Average size, milk yield (MY) and
milk composition of dairy goat breeds.* | Breed | Height (in.) | Weight (lb) | MY (lb) | Fat (%) | Protein (%) | Alpine | 30 | 135 | 1990 | 3.56 | 3.06 | Am. La Mancha | 28 | 130 | 1712 | 3.80 | 3.29 | Nubian | 30 | 135 | 1572 | 4.61 | 3.66 | Saanen | 30 | 135 | 2077 | 3.52 | 3.02 | Toggenburg | 26 | 120 | 1915 | 3.38 | 3.01 | * 1989, 305 day DHI breed averages for milk yield and composition. |
DAILY CARE of Our Herd Our goats receive knowledgeable vet care as needed We check for any signs of lumps, abscesses, etc routinely CAE test Yearly
We copper bolus twice yearly We give BO-SE (Vit. E and Selenium) twice yearly, at least We follow a Cocci prevention program for Kids using Di Methoxx and feed a medicated pellet Worming is done as needed with Cydectin / Quest, Valbazen or/and Zimectrin Gold (do not use SAFEGUARD - it is worthless) CDT Shots given yearly Bucks are fed a grain mix with Ammonium Chloride to prevent Urinary Calculi NEVER FEED BUCKS or wethers GRAIN WITHOUT Ammonium Chloride
We feed a Medicated Pellet to kids! We feed does a high quality grain ration - right now BUCKEYE goat feed - plus alfalfa and a dairy production pellet All kids are DISBUDDED with an iron - NO PASTE Hooves are trimmed every 8 weeks for the most part - BUCKS TOO! Kids will be tattooed before leaving the farm
Goat MUST haves: A proper Cocci prevention program with Dimethox http://www.dairygoatinfo.com/index.php?topic=9125.0 (this link will direct you to Cocci treatments and dosages) Copper Boluses Selenium in either gel form or BO-SE RX A High Quality LOOSE mineral for goats - we use and recommend Cargill Right Now Onyx Access to High Calcium hay - typically alfalfa pellets (dairy does) Bucks need Ammonium Chloride or no grain diets Before are photos used with permission by http://oatbucketfarm.webs.com/ These are before and afters of the SAME GOATS #1 Lamancha - BEFORE 
#2 Lamancha - Before 
#2 Lamancha - After BO-SE COPPER BOLUSING Loose Minerals Alfalfa and A proper Cocci prevention program 
* * * A quick Goat guide Written by Tinia Updated in 2011
The highlighted links will take you to online sources for what you need, so click thenm :)
This is what we do. I am not a vet or expert, but I have put a lot of time into learning what I write here. I make no promises. This just works for us. Feeding: - FULL SIZE DAIRY goats ONLY : Nigerian goats require substantially less! Goats need access to Hay or Browse constantly. Offer free choice - HIGH QUALITY (NOT cow hay) Hay when no browse (shrubs, leaves, bushes, trees, briars) is around or no pasture. They will eat pasture (grass), but much prefer browse (leaves, vines, thorns, etc). Watch their condition, and adjust grain amounts as needed. Like people, each goat is different in what it takes to maintain condition. There easy and hard keepers. Does in Milk CANNOT maintain body condition without grain, unlike some dairy cattle. DO NOT let anyone tell you otherwise - you will KILL your does! We feed or have fed Buckeye Goat feed, Caprine Challenger By Blue Seal. Nutrena Doe and Kid Medicated or a mix of 60% whole oats, 20% corn, 10% alfalfa (more when lactating) and 10% Black Oil Sunflower seeds - RICE BRAN pellets are the best source of fat for does in milk I know of. High protein IS NOT what you need - 16-18% is plenty - so no calf manna - up fat, with rice bran.
Bucklings and Bucks - Buy Ammonium Chloride (ebay, some feedstores, online), and add 1 teaspoon per 3/4 cup of feed (twice a day) OR Feeding only alfalfa pellets (3/4 cup per feeding) and unlimited hay / browse / pasture - adjust as needed for condition - you never want a fat goat, either Bucks in Rut - Around 3 cups of grain with ammonium chloride daily and hay / browse / pasture - adjust as needed for condition - you never want a fat goat, either Purina Noble Goat has ammonium chloride, but I worry they don't have enough, so I would still add some that I buy on my own to the feed. It is very cheap, and some feed stores sell it per lb, and it is under $1.00 a lb.
Does and Doelings- FULL SIZE DAIRY goats ONLY : Nigerian goats require substantially less!
Doeling under 4 months - 1/4 a cup of grain mix / medicated pellet twice a day-
plus unlimited hay / browse / pasture - adjust as needed for condition - you never wants a fat goat, either
- adjust as needed for condition - you never want a fat goat, either
Doeling over 4 months, not bred - 1/2 cup of grain mix / medicated pellet twice a day plus unlimited hay / browse / pasture - adjust as needed for condition - you never want a fat goat, either
Pregnant does - 1 1/2 cups of grain mix twice a day plus alfalfa pellets if you're buying a store bought mix and have no alfalfa hay plsu hay / browse / pasture - adjust as needed for condition - you never want a fat goat, either, especially prior to kidding - you're asking for problems. A doe in milk - at least 2 lbs (3 lbs for large does) of grain a day plus alfalfa pellets and hay / browse / pasture - adjust as needed for condition - you never want a fat goat, either Probios - 5 gms for kids, 10 gms per kid. Offer it when changing feed, diarrhea is present, when they are stressed, after kidding, with antibiotics, during rut Minerals - make sure your mineral has selenium and a high copper count. Use a loose mineral, preferably a quality on like Cargill Right Now Onyx Baking Soda - it is a good idea to mix some baking soda in with the mineral to prevent or help with bloat, which is when air gets caught in the rumen and can be deadly. Not something you will encounter often or maybe ever, but baking soda helps assure this. Alfalfa is essential to does in milk for calcium. Offer it in hay form, pellets or cubes. This is my mix that I fed in the past. You can add Black Oil Sunflower Seeds on your own to any of your feed to give it an extra boost, and if you buy Purina Noble Goat, I'd recommend adding Black Oil Sunflower Seeds and Alfalfa Pellets and Ammonium Chloride yourself to get a general feed mix for every goat. Ammonium is safe for does and doelings. 150 # whole oats 100 # wheat 150 # rolled barley 100 # beet pulp 50 # linseed pellets 50 # alfalfa pellets 50 # black oil sunflower seeds 50 # wet molasses 5 # goat mineral mix We feed Strategy Healthy Edge, though it is a horse feed, we have found it does wonders for production, keeping weight on the does and it is a reasonable price 
Bucks not in rut, wethers and dry does will not even usually require grain - Look to your goats condition to see what it needs! ALL lactating does MUST have some measure of GRAIN and a source of calcium!
Vaccinations, Worming, and Such Please DO NOT kill your goats by having fanciful ideas of 100% holistic or natural care. Goats were not meant to live here in North America and have been bred and altered by selective breeding so much, they will NOT thrive on holistic livestock plans very often. THEY must be wormed when they need it, and they will need it, with a chemical wormer usually. They MUST be treated every 21 days for Coccidia as KIDS. They MUST receive supplemental COPPER AND SELENIUM. MUST. Yearly CDT - kids are given a booster 21 days after first vaccine at 6-8 weeks Copper Bolus - given once to twice a year. Look at the condition of the coat for signs that a second bolus might be needed. If it looks rough and lacks sheen, you probably need to bolus again. If your goat's tail tips are bald, split into a fish tail or if the black goats are turning rusty colored in areas, bolus again.
You buy Copasture on Jefferslivestock.com http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=2&mscssid=DE0TXLHEM6RT8LVV3XH80LD7RG2ED6S5&pf_id=16535&cmkw=copasure
for cattle in 12.5 doses (enough for 125 - 500 lb of cattle per dose), buy clear size 00 capsule to break the large 12.5 doses into goat size doses (each 12.5 capsule is enough for at least 3 80 lb goats), and use a bolus balling gun, which you can get one for under $2 at Tractor Supply or Southern States to shoot the bolus capsule down the goats throat - AVOID the goat chewing the capsule. Re-bolus if they chew it and spit it out. Cover the tip of the bolus gun with KY Jelly to help it stay in and go down the throat quickly!
BO-SE Shots or Selenium Gel - Goats in most areas going to be selenium deficient. This causes hard kiddings and weak kids, among other things. Give the gel monthly or bi-monthly or yearly if you can get the Bo-Se (Selenium and Vitamin E) shot from your vet.
It is wise to give to doe at breeding and kids after birth/kidding. You can order the gel from Jeffers for $8.95. Try giving bi-monthly to be sure you don't give too much, as too much is toxic, and give it at the rate of 5ml per goat around 6 months of age: http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=2&mscssid=GTXR9C0952PJ9H8UQ19HA8JNXB3M9SQ7 Coccidiosis (Cocci) Prevention - Common in kids. Feed a medicated pellet to kids and use one of the meds listed below. It is a Parasite, but isn't a worm and worming doesn't help the problem. Prevent it from getting out of control or ever taking root by feeding a medicated pellet. If you find the goats are loosing weight at all or have diarrhea that doesn't clear up in a few days time, use Dimethox by the gallon, powder or 40% injectable given orally, in a concentrated liquid or in a powder, and all are put in the goats' drinking water or given undiluted as a preventative orally - it is stronger than any medicated pellet: http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=2&mscssid=DE0TXLHEM6RT8LVV3XH80LD7RG2ED6S5 or this for the powder you mix with water http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=2&mscssid=DE0TXLHEM6RT8LVV3XH80LD7RG2ED6S5 or the concentrated liquid, Sulmet (some people report this is no longer effective) http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=2&mscssid=DE0TXLHEM6RT8LVV3XH80LD7RG2ED6S5
Dimethox Powder Mixing and Dosages: 1 package to a pint of water.
Each cc will treat 2.6#'s of kid and give it the needed 75mg/kg.
For a 10# kid 4cc...
20#=8cc
25#=10cc
30#=12cc
35#=14cc
40#=16cc
45#=18cc
50#=20cc
Corid is reported as NOT effective for Cocci in many areas, and then some people swear by it. It does work by preventing Thiamine absorbtion - so that is something to consider since goats need thiamine.
6.25cc per 25 pounds for 5 days
LBS and CCs 5 1.25
7 1.75
10 2.50
12 3.00
15 3.75
17 4.25
20 5.00
22 5.50
25 6.25
27 6.75
30 7.50
32 7.75
35 8.75
37 9.25
40 10.00
42 10.50
45 11.25
47 11.75
50 12.50
52 13.00
55 13.75
57 14.25
60 15.00
62 15.50
65 16.25
67 16.75
70 17.50
72 18.00
75 18.75
77 19.25
80 20.00
82 20.50
85 21.25
87 21.75
90 22.50
92 23.00
95 23.75
97 24.25
100 25.00 If you have 20% powder - mix 1/2 package with 1 Pint of water
Adults USUALLY will develop an fairy strong immunity to Cocci typically. Worming - Use a weight tape to get the weight of the goat or actually weigh the goat. You don't want to under dose! Always worm the doe after she kids. Some people advice not to use Cydectin on goats with a heavy worm load or pregnant does. Please research each wormer's milk withholding time for humans. Safeguard has a high worm resistance, and the pellets do not work well. Ivo-mec Plus - 1cc per 33-50lbs Valbazen 1cc per 10lbs - liver flukes - NOT FOR USE IN PREGNANT Does or Zimectrin Gold 1cc per 50lbs Moxidectin: Quest form 1cc per 100lbs Cydectin form: 1ml per 22lbs in Pour on injectable 1cc per 120lbs Moxidectin might be the wormer of last resort and so avoiding anymore resistance to it is essential.
Schedule - if you can do fecal egg counts with your vet, this is best. If you cannot, then I worm during times of stress (usually once), after kidding (usually once, the day after kidding), and when the inner eye lids are pale pink (they should be deep pink/red), and then I worm once and then ten days later, since they are actually showing signs of worms. Severe Worm Loads - Bottle jaw or swelling under jaw indicates an Urgent heavy worm load, and some people feel Cydectin shouldn't be used as it is so strong for heavy worm loads. Use another wormer, like Ivomec or Ivomec PLUS. It is advised to not, in the case of VERY heavy worms loads, give the Injectable wormers orally because it can cause the goat to have internal bleeding, so USE it as an injection 1cc per 30 lbs, and re-worm at least 10 days later, and some advise to do so in a four stage manner, 3 times every 10 days and then once a month later due to larva development.
CHECK inner bottom eyelid to see if you have the worm burden under control! http://www.scsrpc.org/SCSRPC/Files/Files/Misc/famacha%20card.jpg The color indicated level of anemia, if any
Symptoms you will likely or might encounter and what it can mean: pale (or white) gums or non-pink inside eyelids - worm the goat dull coat - worm the goat, copper bolus, give selenim diarrhea - worm the goat, treat for coccidia, give pepto bismol to control the diarrhea at the same dose for human listed on the bottle. A DRENCH gun is great for this and a must have. They are around $15 at Tractor Supply. lower milk production - worm the goat
clumpy stools - worm the goat Rough hair - worm the goat, treat coccidia, give selenium, copper bolus chronic coughing - can be lung worms, treat with Valbazen, Ivomec PLUS or Cydectin Blindness/stumbling, holding head up in the air, weakness - Polio or Listeriosis. Treat with RX strength thiamine ASAP. Goat can recover. Banamine RX injectable. This is something to contact your vet over. Weakness, off feed, shivers in a doe in Milk - Milk Fever. Act quickly or she can die. You need calcium injections ASAP. Call your vet.
Weak Kids - BO-SE injection 1/4 cc
Calculate Goat Weight here: http://fiascofarm.com/goats/weight-chart.htm
Breeding and Pregnancy:
· It is best to make a note of when the buck has been in with your does, and then you should make a note of the due date 150 days later. · Most large goat breeds only come into heat in the fall, but Nigerians and Pygmies, and often Nubians, can breed year around, as well as crosses of these breeds like Kinders and Mini Nubians. · Try to attend births. Complications are not uncommon. IF A DOE IS in Labor for more than 30 Minutes, you need to intervene!!! · Prior to breeding, make sure your doe isn't copper deficient or selenium deficient. Birth difficulties are exacerbated by these problems. You can have listless and weak kids from failing to provide enough copper or selenium to their dams. · If you need to turn kids to get them in proper position, READ ahead of time online about how to do so and when to call the vet. NEVER let a doe labor for hours without delivering. She will die. You must call a vet if she has labored for an hour without kidding if you cannot turn the kids or address the situation. · Watch for Milk Fever or more aptly called Hypocalcaemia. IF the doe is weak, trembling, not having strong contractions (though it often sets in after kidding), shivers after being milked, is off her feed, you are probably dealing with a calcium deficiency, which is Hypocalcaemia. Prevent this by offering Alfalfa and even some tums (3-5) in her feed, if she will eat them, during pregnancy. To treat it, because she will DIE if you do not, Calcium Gluconate 23% Solution, which you can buy at Tractor Supply or a local feedstore, orally with a drench gun, if needed, 8 -12 oz first, then give 5 oz - 8 oz at least 3 times a day until she is well OR inject 40 cc across the ribcage in multiple areas until the full 40 cc has been administered. Vet script Calicum is preferred. · Once the kids are born, most people dip the navel cords in betadine. If you have kids presenting incorrectly, YOU might need to go in and help turn them. Please visit Fiasco Farm's site for a birthing guide http://fiascofarm.com/goats/how_to_deliver_a_kid.html It is a good idea to have Vet RX drugs like Banamine, Dex, Lute and Oxytocin on hand for births!
Kid Care
Milk - If you plan to bottlefeed, be aware that if you do not milk the mother's and provide actual goat's milk, you should NEVER use a milk replacer. It can and does kill kids.
Feed WHOLE cow's milk ONLY. Never 2%. NEVER replacer!!! People will tell your replacers are okay, but every single time someone has called me with a sick bottle kid, it has been corrected almost every single time with changing to whole milk. I feed my full sizes kids - from 2 weeks to 5 months - 50-60 ounces a day Mid Mini Kids - 40 oz from 2 weeks to weaning Nigierians or Pygmy kids - max out at 25 ounces Colostrum - Kids must receive Colostrum from either their own mothers or another goat. Heat treated is fine and used with CAE prevention programs, but the kids will typically DIE without colostrum. . . powered colostrum will not suffice and should only be used if the mother has died and no milk can be gotten from her and no other goat's colostrum can be obtained as a last resort. Bottle-feeding - It is hard to pull kids that have been dam raised from the mother and then try to give a bottle, but it can be done. Do not pull kids that have been dam raised prior to 12 weeks old (minimum of 8-10 weeks for bucklings) and sell them because they may not accept a bottle. Try offering the bottle yourself and see if they accept it, it might take a lot off effort, and you have the best chance of success under 4 weeks of age and from already friendly kids. I bottlefed does until 20 weeks and buck until 16 weeks - at least. Disbudding kids should be done by an experienced person until you have seen enough disbudding to know how long to do it, what pressure to apply, etc. Buy you own iron to be sure it gets hot enough and take it with you. NEVER USE A Large CALF DISBUDDING IRON - YOU WILL KILL YOUR KIDS. We use the X-30 dehorner in the 1/2 size for medium to large goats. You can use the 3/8 tip for miniature goat breeds, and some people still use the 1/2 size for miniature breeds. http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=2&mscssid=A4M4HTQJBXBA8HW8259EE6TPNNUQ90M6 Contact your local Extension office, put ads on craigslist or look on goatfinder.com for local goat breeders. Most breeders are happy to help, even if they charge a small fee of $3-5 a kid. It is worth it. Friendly Behavior - If you handle your kids daily, then can be VERY people friendly without bottle-feeding, but the most "in your pocket" kids are bottlefed. Sometimes the bottle babies are too attached and cry for you when you're gone and jump on you when they are large and fully grown, so each form of raising has ups and downs. WETHERING: If you have bucklings that aren't breeding quality or you have too many to sell as bucks, wethering is needed. We find gentle use of a bander with a dose before of banamine before 8 weeks old works well. Another option is the Burdizzio.
Diseases to be aware of
CAE - Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis is transmitted to kids via the positive mother's milk. Buy your goats from a herd that will either let you test their stock,
provide recently CAE paperwork or guarantee a return if the goat end up positive and then test your stock yearly through a company such as http://www.biotracking.com/ Some people practice pulling the kids immediately, never allowing them to nurse from the dam, and then pasteurizing all milk the kids drink. If you do not do this, and doing that is NEVER an assurance goats will be CAE free, be sure you test your herd and that your goats from from CAE tested herds, too. Please research this topic a great deal more. CL - Caseous Lymphadenitis is abscesses in the goat's lymphatic system. Blood tests are not accurate unless a lump is present. You must check the herd you are buying from for abscesses or healed abscesses, and that is about all you can do. If you get a goat that ends up with an abscess, you will usually either cull or put the goat far away from your main herd and practice strict bio security around the CL goat's pen. If the abscess ruptures with your main herd, you have a real problem, as all goats are then contaminated. Please research this topic a great deal more. CL can be contagious to HUMANS - there are documented cases of this! There is no cure in people, either. MEAT GOATS AND SHEEP are notorious carriers of CL. Auction yards are full of it. Swap meets are full of it! Johne's disease - Body condition can be a helpful indication when looking at herds you plan to buy from as many people do not test. These goats waste away when the disease is active, eventually, the goat dies from lack of nutrition. Please research this topic a great deal more. Testing is not very accurate. These are not the only diseases to take note of!
Registering your Goats
Registries - If you deal with full sized Dairy breeds, you will register with the ADGA or AGS - they are the primary dairy registries. You can also use the IDGA. If you deal with miniature Dairy breeds, you will deal with MDGA or TMGR. The former is the larger registry. There is a small registry called the NMGA that registers goats of miniature size, goats are grade animals. The MDGA will not register goats with Pygmy breeding because they are a dairy only registry. The IDGR will record goats with Pygmy breeding and grade goats. NPGA registers Pygmy goats only. There is a Kinder goat registry as well, but they do not allow or recognize grade or American animals, and they are rude folks to deal with. The ADGA, the largest of the dairy registries, allows grade does to be recorded, experimentals from two Purebred or American parents, and Americans (has a base 3 generations back with a grade doe), but they do not allow grade sires or non-dairy animals such as Pygmy crosses, such as Kinder goats. Grades are registered Native of Appearance or NOA. The AGS only allows purebred only animals to be recorded. The IDGR allows purebred, Americans, Grade recorded and experimentals. Grades are, like with the ADGA, recorded as Native On Appearance.
The MDGA allows only crosses of purebred animals to be recorded (full sized dairy animals must be registered purebred and crossed with a registered purebred Nigerian Dwarf)
Your GOAT Medication CABINET MUST HAVES
Don't wait until you NEED it - have this stuff on HAND!
Vitamin B COMPLEX or Thiamine RX from your vet (treats Polio) Vitamine B12 - Stimulates desire to eat when ill and off feed BO-SE RX or Selenium GEL (must have in diets) Ammonium Chloride for bucks and wethers Baking Soda (to prevent bloat, which can be fatal) High Quality loose minerals (helps control worms, as well) Injectable Vitamins and A&D Probios (needed after antibiotics, illness, worming, kidding, stress, etc) CDT Dimethox 40% or 12.5% (cocci treatment and prevention) Tetanus Antitoxin Dexamethasone (plethora of uses from Listeriosis to labor) Calcium Gluconate (Milk Fever treatment) Ivomec Plus, Quest or Cydectin and Valbazen wormers A Balling Gun Copasure 12.5 capsules Syringes and 18-20 guage needles Lutalyse and Oxytocin (birth) Betadine (navel cord dipping) Sterile Gloves (pulling kids) Hoof Trimmers Banamine injectable (pain relief RX only) Pepto Bismol Teat Dips CMT Mastitis tests
FAQ COPPER BOLUS - essential in this area to goat health, as is BO-SE You can order the 12.5 Copasure from Jefferspet.com The 00 size capsules are a few bucks on ebay.com - - - I mixed what you see there for 7 goats and a total of 500 lbs I estimate each capsule for 50lbs of goat weight. 12.5 Capsule to compare with my 00 mixed capsule You can then use a plastic bolusing gun, which cost about $2 on Jeffers, to shoot the capsule or capsules down the throat of the goat - you DO NOT want the goat to chew it!
"Goat Keeping from Birth to milking, in standard dairy goats…"
As Copied in completion from on September 8th 2009. Refer to for updated information and more very important information ~ Basically, go there and for almost everything you need to know! For updates to article, refer to the above site. I did not write this article. I just found it very helpful. The actual author deserves full credit for this informative piece.
"Goat Temp should be 102, always take a herd mates temp to determine if your goats temp is subnormal or high.
Shots:
Bo-Se (selenium, vitamin E injectable) 1cc. per 40 lbs. Vet Rx
CD&T (Vaccination for entero and tetanus) (2cc subq or IM, repeat in 21 days)
Lysigin (Vaccination for staph mastitis, will also help with staph dermatitis on the udder) (5cc sub-q, Give initial shots before breeding the doe repeat in 21 days. This is for initial shots on does previously unvaccinated or virgin does pre-breeding. Then one 5cc shot booster before kidding.
CMPK injectable (calcium, mineral) (vet RX) 30 cc sub-q, 15cc in 2 places every 6 hours or one 30cc shot in 2 places sub q for sluggish labor)
200mg Tetracycline (Biomycin etc.) We choose not to use LA200 because it contains a sting carrier in it for cattle. 3.5cc SubQ per 100 pounds.
300,000-unit water based Penicillin Penn/Aqueous 3 cc per 50 pounds SubQ. Once per day for prevention of wound infection or uterine infection, every 12 hours in an ill goat.
Wormers:
Cydectin Cattle Pour on 1cc.per 22 lbs. orally
Valbazen liquid 1cc-10 lbs orally
Ivermectin Plus Injectable 1cc per 30 lbs orally
Ivermectin 1% injected at bottle dosages for lice, Mites and nose bots. Orally for stomach worms and lungworms. 1cc per 50 pounds orally .
Misc:
400 IU vitamin E capsules from Wal-Mart
Iodine-7% Iodine, Chlorhexideen, or equivalent pre surgery scrub to dip navels and cords.
Probios (a toothpaste tube type probiotic paste)
Lambar nipples, Lambar bucket
Corid, Deccox M, Dimethox 40% to be used orally for the control of cocci until they are old enough and eating enough medicated feed to control coccidiosis.
The day the Kids are born…
The day they are born give them their Bo-Se Shot.
Give 1- 400 unit Vit E Capsule when they are dried off, snip the end
and give orally.
Spray the hooves and navel with Iodine, or dip, using clean iodine each time.
With iodine hard to find use chlorhexideen or other pre-surgery cleaner like betadine.
Give them probios. You will give them a pea size amount. Use your finger and swipe it thru their mouth. Use up one tube on all the kids kept.
They need to consume about 20 oz of colostrums within 12 hours. After which time they can be switched to milk.
Bucks, limit to 4 oz a feeding of their colostrum but still getting their 20 ounces in 12 hours.
More colostrum of course can be fed, just not less. And speaking of colostrum, highest quality of colostrum comes from your older does their first 12 hours of milking.
Heat treat the colostrum: In a double boiler heat the colostrum to 135 degrees, start timing for one hour. Your goal is to keep the colostrum no lower than 135, but no higher than 140 for the whole hour. Freeze your excess colostrum.
Pasteurizing milk: Heat the milk to 165 degrees. Stir it and make sure it is 165 degrees for 15 seconds. Cool and feed.
Move to milk that has been warmed to body temp. Make changes to chilled milk slowly; don’t offer cold milk one day and warm milk the next.
Day 3 introduces the lambar buckets.
You should be feeding them at breakfast lunch and dinner and before bed,
unless they are tiny. Where they will need milk offered more often.
At day 20, start on Cocci prevention. Use Corid or your sulfa, dosages in goatkeeping 101 on dairygoatinfo.com once a day for 5 days then
repeat every 20 days until well grown and on meat goat pellets that contain their cocci med (decoquinate, rumensin, lasalocid, bovatec).
Day 20 Worm with Valbazen 1cc per 10lbs (this is for tapes) Important note is that my
babies are not in pens frequented by adults; so adult worms aren’t a worry for me until my kids are older. If your babies are in with adults than you will have to worm them with your adult wormer, here Cydectin. Worming kids every 3 weeks until weaned and well grown is the best prevention, along with cocci, giving you healthy, robust kids that can be bred their first year. Do not wait for symptoms of cocci or worms and then use treatment, think prevention always.
Day 20 start their water, an easily tipped over bucket so they don't drown. Each year kids will drown in water troughs, barns will burn down from heat lamps and goats will be crushed under round bales or hung from the string around bales of hay.
Alfalfa pellets, meat goat pellets, their minerals and hay. I also move their milk down to 4 times a day. 4- 20oz bottles minimum or as much as they will drink. Once again make changes slowly.
You will also trim feet when 3 weeks old. It's a given on management that each month goats feet are trimmed.
Goats thrive on consistancy. The same temp milk, the same feed each day, no changes at all, even to preferring the same people milk them.
At 45 days old (6 weeks) give round 2 of Corid for 5 more days; Give their CD&T injection. Worm.
At 67 Days (9 weeks) Give CD&T injection. Switch wormer to Cydectin.
At 12 weeks decide if you are ready to wean them. They should be eating 1 lb of grain. Kids should be gaining roughly 10 lbs a month so by breeding age they will be 80-90 lbs. Worm with Cydectin. Do not wean kids you expect to breed this year from high calorie, high calcium milk to grass hay and sweet feed and expect them to continue this good rate of growth. Replace the calcium in the milk with alfalfa.
I give one more CD&T vaccination after 12 weeks old, to seal immunity. By then I am down to the few doelings I am going to keep.
From weaning to 8 months they should be over 90 pounds. Ready to be bred.
Minimum weights:
1 month, 10 pounds plus their birth weight
2 months, 20 pounds plus their birth weight
3 months, 30 pounds plus their birth weights
Etc…
If you are lower than this than don't blame it on slow to mature bloodlines, blame this on your prevention management and your weaning practices....
To early weaning?
Not enough milk?
Weaning from high calorie, high calcium milk to low to no calcium grass hay and pasture?
Now it’s time to breed them……………..
Breeding Time………..
For arguments sake lets say your doeling was born in March and is now 90+ pounds and you want to breed her in October, to have kids in March.
In September I give all the virgin does I am keeping 5cc SubQ of Lysigin (a vaccination for staph). I repeat this in 21 days. Now it’s October 1st and I am going to breed them this coming heat in October. This is also the time I use any other vaccinations or supplements I give at the farm.
Give the does their Bo-Se 1cc per 40 lbs
Trim their feet and go through the does one more time for faults, check for extra teats, single orifice in each teat etc.
Bucks 1 month before breeding give their Bo-Se 1cc. per 40lbs. Bo-se can cause a temporary lag in the motility of their sperm, this is temporary.
Worm with Cydectin 1cc per 22 lbs.
First 50 days of being bred don’t DO ANYTHING to them NO Stress or
Changes. Implantation of the eggs into the uterus can be up to 14 days. Worming with anything, antibiotics, feed through products, can cause a doe to slip the egg and not implant it. Using wormers if you must for the health of the doe, pick one without a flukecide in it. Do not use Valbazen or Ivermectin Plus that contain products to kill liver flukes.
At 100 days bred use Ivermectin Plus 1 cc per 30 lbs orally (this is for liver Flukes, lungworm, 4th stage HC.)
At 100 days pregnant stop milking in your milking stock. With the decrease of calories from coming into the milk room to eat, and the stopping of milking, her udder will firm up. This will signal the brain to stop milking. Check her udder out in her stall each day. Make sure it does not get to full. If it does than simply ease a little milk out of each side. At no time should you bring her into the milk room, wash her udder, and stimulate her milk let down reflex. This floods the brain with Oxytocin and signals her to make more milk. Just a few squirts out of each side to soften the udder a little bit. Do teat dip her, and make sure she continues to stand for a few minutes.
Alfalfa pellets are fed in the barn, they are continuous from birth to death as is minerals. But the move to not going into the milk room, means you do have to at 100 days bred offer them a small bite of grain for the energy and carbs they need to grow the kids. At 100 days bred the kids are small puppies and will grow in 50 days into the 8-pound kids she will have. Start slowly increasing her grain until at kidding she is eating what she will on the milk stand. 1 pound in the am and 1 pound in the pm with her alfalfa pellets in her barn.
You will keep your young doelings on the same grain they grew out on until 100 days pregnant, then slowly switch them onto the milk stand grains you have chosen to use. Here it is simple, whole oats for their energy and carbs and calories, rice bran or black oil sunflower seeds, or oils for fat and soybean meal or a knock off of calf manna for their protein (if you use alfalfa hay with high protein no protein supplementation is needed) In fact if you have access to excellent quality alfalfa hay, no grain is needed. Minerals are always in the barn. Like the older milker paragraph above, you will increase their grain at 100 days bred slowly, up to what they will likely eat on the milk stand, 1 pound in the am and 1 pound in the pm.
Our humidity is high, even in the winter. We have few to no freezing nights that continue with even ice in the water buckets the next morning. So the keeping quality of alfalfa is poor. Feeding alfalfa pellets and our prevention for cocci and worms is key.
Once milking you will of course have to adjust their grain, some heavy milkers will eat twice this much.
120 days bred give CD&T 2cc Sub Q or IM Lysigin shot 5cc SubQ.
This will not only bolster the doe but it will impart powerful immunity into her colostrum for the kids.
A week before kidding give the doe’s a dairy cut. Shaving the udder, belly etc. to make kidding, but also make milking cleaner.
Be careful letting heavy bred does jump up and down on the milk stands.
Day of Kidding...
Heat treat the colostrum: In a double boiler heat the colostrum to 135 degrees, start timing for one hour. Your goal is to keep the colostrum no lower than 135, but no higher than 140 for the whole hour. Freeze your excess colostrum.
Pasteurizing milk: Heat the milk to 165 degrees. Stir it and make sure it is 165 degrees for 15 seconds. Cool and feed.
Worm the does with cydectin 1cc per 22lbs.
Have on hand CMPK injectable Vet Rx. This is for hypocalcaemia and sluggish labor.
200 ml Tetracycline antibiotic. This is for a uterine flush. Take some on gloved hand and swipe inside uterine wall. This is for a hard labor when you have to help move kids around, safety precaution. Making and infusion of tetracycline and sterile water (you can boil water to make it sterile or use distilled) and using your weak kid syringe and tube, you can easily flush the uterus yourself.
300,000 unit penicillin antibiotic 3cc per 50 lbs. Sub Q once a day for 10 days, take temp everyday, if temp goes up 3 cc per 50lbs twice a day. This is if there was a gross out situation during birth (Dead kids, way too much maneuvering of kids to get them out, parts of kids, mummy kids).
Oxytocin to bring down milk, or to help with contractions if calcium doesn’t work. Never use Oxytocin on and closed uterus. This is a vet script use wisely. As little as 1/4 to 1/2 cc works well.
Lutelyse 2cc IM. Another vet RX that will abort your does, recycle your does, open the cervix back up to do a uterine wash, or make your doe come into labor on schedule.
10 days after kidding use Valbazen 1cc per 10 lbs. This is the only time I tape worm my adult does, milk withdrawal is 3 milkings, 36 hours. Tapes are of no consequence to the adult goat and being the only worm owners can see with the naked eye, they are the most problem for owners. I do this one worming since this time also coincides with appraisal and showing and having a lot of new folks at the farm for sales of kids, milkers and milk…so wouldn’t want any tapes in the poop!"
WWW.DAIRYGOATINFO.COM - A Great SOURCE OF GOAT INFORMATION. Please refer to the site for more information and authorship. for a HUGE amount of goat insight!
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