Why do most goats look rough coated, thin and why do
so many people have stunted size or have high kid losses?
Coccidia and Worms are often to blame. 100% Organic methods or no approach will yield poor looking animals and high kid losses.
Don't worm just because you think you should do so.
Herbal wormers have never worked very well or at all in our experience.
When you worm without knowing if you need to, you're wasting money or helping causing resistance. Goat's can't continue being healthy if we keep causing resistance in wormers. Cydectin is pretty much the last wormer working in my area and globally. I use it ONLY when inner eye lids color is pale and/OR when the condition of the goat looks as if it needs it - I don't care if they carry a worm load if THEY CAN do it and be the epitome of health - that shows a hardy goat. . . that is what we need. If the goat needs wormed, worm and repeat in 10 days and even 10 days later. . .this gets the hatching eggs and breaks the life cycle.
Doses for MOST GOAT WORMERS FOUND HERE
- Repeat in ten days to kill eggs that hatched since last worming.
Coccidiosis (Cocci) Prevention - Common in kids. Feed a medicated pellet to kids and use one of the meds listed below.
It is a Parasite, but isn't a worm and worming doesn't help the problem. Prevent it from getting out ofcontrol or ever taking root by feeding a medicated pellet. If you find the goats are loosingweight at all or have diarrhea that doesn't clear up in a few days time, I use Baycox (Toltrazuril) (prefer) OR Dimethox 40% injectable given orally. For Baycox, I give it once every 14 days - 1cc per 5lbs. For 40% Dimethox, I give it for 5 days every 21 days. 1cc per 5lbs orally. In 2016, it seems hard to find the dimethox injection or powder.
If using corid, click here